The New York label’s latest collection makes us want to move to Brooklyn, start a guitar band and break-up on our first gig.
As cool as LA’s fashion may be, with all its laid-back, horizontal silhouettes and slung-on streetwear, there’s a reason NYC is still the America’s fashion capital.
Sure, we’ve seen the likes of Saint Laurent move much of its team to the City of Angels and BoF proclaim it the ‘fifth capital of the fashion world’. But, even if that’s true, NYC is still in the top four, thanks to its long history of garment making, insatiable appetite for apparel, dizzying numbers of fashion businesses and eternal love of the all-black outfit (see Berlin, London et. al).
One of the brands proving that fashion still imitates the city and vice versa is ‘Untitled Collective’, a mischievously-named label crafting menswear as minimalistic and unapologetically direct (that’s New York for ya!) as its name. After a handful of collections, they’re back with an FW21 wardrobe titled ‘Sartorial Adolescence’, which sounds a little like a very lofty Child Psychology theory but is all about the young movers and shakers running riot around the city.
Inspired by Brooklyn’s myriad subcultures and their raw, rebellious energies, the pieces are the kind of neutral, utilitarian and urgent garments that could only be cooked-up by a big-city brand. Elongated silhouettes are the key here, seen via baggy suit trousers, long, oversized leather coats and stretched workwear jackets, mixing work and play with the suave chutzpah of a discerning New Yorker.
Materials, too, are at the forefront of what Untitled Collective do, with gussets used for ease of movement and patchwork providing comfort and style. It creates the kind of city-slicker look that you could rock from street corner to bar to club, sharp as you like but bolstered by more generous cuts that avoid any stuffiness or smartness.
Basically, this has got us wanting to move to Brooklyn asap and slouch around pretending we’re the reincarnation of Lou Reed, knowing every avenue off by heart and the coolest dives to swagger into. Call it an American dream if you like, but it’s testament to the power of Untitled Collective’s FW21 collection that it makes us think of the city so much; and that’s New York City we’re talking about, not LA.