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by HQ

FFORME ushers in a new era of structured femininity

For the brand’s very second runway show, Paul Helbers gave an intimate moment while showcasing the tension between draping, engineering, and tailoring. Experimenting with sensuality, texture, and contrast in this collection of unconventional essentials, he sowed in a new form of womenswear for this NYFW.

FFORME’s image and storytelling that has been defined by architectural shapes, are expanding into a more intimate and fluid pattern of studied pleats and gatherings, meant to punctuate or enhance movement. A perfect duality of comfy yet with a couture feel, the couture fabrics such as heavyweight satin duchesse come with a casual look.  Material contrasts play out as soft irregular merino knit and heavy cady; rippling silk jersey, matte satin, and hammered lamé that give off a subtle sheen. A restrained palette of cream, deep indigo, black, taupe, and dark olive is juxtaposed with intense emerald green, signal red, and optical white.

By sculpting directly on the body, I make clothes from a unique perspective, embracing different generations of women and body types to find a sort of elegance which is immediate and liberating. Even though I focus on the clothes and going back to the source of how they are made, there is a character building within FFORME, a feeling that is quite soulful.’ — Paul Helbers, Creative Director

Duality has always been the centrepiece of the brand’s vision, forming a foundation of elegance and leisure. A perfect example like the shirt silhouette, crisp in washed poplin with a collar that dips away from the nape of the neck. The brand redefines feminine luxury, like the ribbed dress with an open back alluding to an internal bustier with contoured boning. Take casual to another level by enhancing the everyday jackets in organic Japanese denim or soft, double-face merino accented with sculpted metal buttons. Tops curve and cross the body, weighted with metal beads. A blazer is cropped and collarless, unconstructed, and plunging into a deep V. The recognizable martingale belt reappears on a jacket in washed leather as smooth as silk. Coats are oversized with shawl collars that stay standing. A lightweight trench in recycled nylon is defined by padding around the cuffs and collar. Waistbands on oversized couture hemmed pants feature triangle-smocking. Brimless knitted toques and leather ballerina flats contribute to an unstudied sophistication.

The story of FFORME showcases a longevity of innovation like never seen before. By making each piece look desirable yet composed in its feminine state,  FFORME has shown once more how breaking barriers is no challenge but a part of its story.

Lauren Pierre-Louis
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