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by Maja Bebber

At the heart of GUESS USA is a constantly evolving story.

Under the design direction of Nicolai Marciano, with photography by Eli Russel Linnetz, and distribution by Slam Jam, the artisanal line continues to illuminate the Western American aesthetic each season, building upon the experimental design techniques, fabric treatments and boundary-pushing silhouettes that have been definitive core values of the brand since its inception.

Vintage-style denim and cracked leather, central pillars of the GUESS USA brand, are built upon this season. Trucker jackets and denim shorts come with heavy distressing and shredded hemlines as if they’ve been chewed up and spat out. Combining a variety of different washes slithers of denim are patchworked together to create a shredded mini-dress and a pair of jeans that reinterprets the American flag into a dramatic piece of statement denim-wear. Having already explored a slew of heavy vintage washes, for FW24 GUESS USA introduces wax coated denim – adding a glazed-coating to jeans and jackets to achieve a soft feel to rustic-looking garments. Broadening its use of cracked leather, GUESS USA expands into new silhouettes and categories, whilst also re engineering the line’s core jackets and trousers with updated finishes. Moto jackets, wide-legged cargo trousers and sleeveless jackets with flattened pockets are introduced for womenswear. Additionally, emerald green and burgundy-hued cracked leather make a debut appearance, as well as a black-on-black colourway seen across jeans, shorts and heavy-duty workwear jackets.

Other outerwear highlights include a battered white biker jacket embellished with with postcard graphics, a patchwork leather distressed shearling jacket, and a well-worn varsity jacket that integrates an authentic graphic pulled from the GUESS archive with the craftsmanship of GUESS USA – furthering a visual, graphic identity for the line.

Elsewhere, signature GUESS USA distressed knits include rustic-coloured crew neck ribbed sweaters and washed-out cable knits created using a complex plaited yarn process. One standout cardigan which dons the American flag is created using a jacquard that involves a triple twisted yarn – adopting the look of a piece, you’d discover rummaging through the rales of an artisanal roadside boutique dotted along the West Coast.

High quality faux fur, engineered exclusively in Paris, is also re-explored via a fuzzy vest and cropped jacket, aswell as being used to dress up the collar of a floor-length patchwork denim coat which was originally introduced in GUESS USA’s first collection.

With a focus on craftsmanship, the brand’s design lexicon taps into GUESS’S extensive forty-year archive, looks at American style codes through an elevated expression. This season, GUESS USA introduces tailoring into its arsenal. Inspired by an unfinished blazer discovered in the archive, the brand proposes a three-piece suit with distressed, frayed edges, evoking a lived-in feel – with classic pick stitching seen across the womenswear version of the suit. Accompanied by a full-length double-breasted woollen coat in army green and a washed-out tan trenchcoat, the formal wear adopts the purposefully distressed finishes seen across the rest of the line, as if such pieces were baked in the Californian sun.

Completing this season’s offering are maxi and mini hobo bags and a gaggle of new iterations of the Claudia bag, crafted in pale pink and mint green cracked leather, as well as faded denim, all in a multitude of sizes.

GUESS USA also widens its footwear range with work boots and vintage-inspired cowboy boots, and proposes metal hardware western belts.

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