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NYFW 2024Round Up

by Maja Bebber

tmrw takes a closer look at the shows at New York Fashion Week.

The top four shows

Concept Korea

Concept Korea is an official program for New York Fashion Week that started in 2010 and is now celebrating its 13th anniversary. Concept Korea events such as fashion shows, promotional events, and networking days have been held on site in New York to elevate the status of Korean designers and gain wider recognition. Despite the change in format during pandemic, Concept Korea has continued to work tirelessly to establish a foothold for Korean brands in the global market. Concept Korea hosted a fashion show to introduce three promising Korean designer brands at New York Fashion Week.

Charms

CHARM’S represents “attractive things” and embodies clothing for charming individuals.
CHARM’S is a leading brand in the fashion of South Korean 20s, pursuing values beyond apparel that involve the interchange of culture and youthfulness.

Kimmy.J

KIMMY J started by Heejin Kim (Jenny) & Haeun Lee (Zhenzi) in 2013 and aims to activate the media and product distribution of young creators who wish to work with current contents, actively linking designers, artists and influencers, and creating an environmentally friendly and social We are working hard to create meaningful products. KIMMY J’s goal is to become a platform that helps more people learn about themselves and express themselves so that they can find healthy happiness in this fast-changing era.

Mmam

MMAM [Maison Modern Art Museum] = Maison is a modern art museum. Wearable artware developed with inspiration from unintended and unconscious scribbles and actions that break away from standardized patterns, by Hyun Park.

Retrofête

A nod to the glamour and exuberance of decades past, the New York-based label takes its name from a melding of synonyms for “vintage” and “party.” Enlivened with “more-is-more” energy, Retrofête blurs the line between day and night, creating a life-of-the-party aesthetic within each design. The iridescence of the sequins, modern meets vintage denim, and sophisticated silk silhouettes—each detail elevates a feeling of nostalgia with a fashion forward take on confident and sexy styles.

Sergio Hudson

The Sergio Hudson brand, launched in 2014, has an established aesthetic defined by immaculate tailoring and quality materials.

Every garment is carefully crafted for the female form with a masterful use of color and silhouette, emboldening the wearer to feel powerful, sexy, elegant, and glamorous. Sergio Hudson collections are produced in the US and can be found through sergiohudson.com, select boutiques, and luxury retailers.

The Blonds

The Blonds were born out of the desire to make their clients feel strong, seductive and confident.

Since the formation of the brand, Phillipe and David have created intricate and glamorous one of a kind pieces for entertainers and private clients. The Blonds are known for their craftsmanship and diverse use of luxury materials juxtaposed with hardware such as spikes and chains.

Other shows

Allina Liu

Allina Liu is a label based in NYC. After honing her design skills at notable fashion houses such as The Row, Thakoon, Rebecca Taylor, and J.Crew, Allina Liu launched her eponymous brand in 2015.

Seeking to combine elegance with sensuality and comfort with style, Allina’s work explores the confluence of opposites. Inspirations include shibari (the art of Japanese knot tying), fiber artist Do-ho Suh, photographers Nobuyoshi Araki and Ren Hang, as well as 17th century Dutch portraiture.
Her pieces have been featured on celebrities such as Cardi B, Justine Skye, Awkwafina, & Ji Hye Park. Liu’s designs have also been highlighted across a number of iconic publications such as Vogue, WWD, Marie Claire, Glamour, NYLON, Contributor Magazine, Fader, and many more.
Allina Liu focuses on quality above all else. This relentless pursuit of excellence, combined with the brand’s stance on sustainability and ethical labor, distinguishes the company’s products from today’s fast-fashion world.

Caroline Zimbalist

Caroline Zimbalist is an artist and designer who hand creates  one-of-a-kind pieces using nontraditional processes and techniques. She’s studied painting, illustrating, and sculpting since she was four and earned a BFA at Parsons studying fashion. She developed an enthusiasm for avant-garde design while furthering her schooling at Central Saint Martins, London.

Always interested in making her own materials and pushing color boundaries, she started stripping abstract paintings off their frames and creating garments with the idea of draping bodies in different color palettes.
For the past several years she has become proficient with bio-plastics and is creating clothing, jewelry, and sculptures with this relevant textile.

She molds her unique recipe of biodegradable and natural materials into striking, three-dimensional forms not just for the ecological value of the technique but for the versatility it permits.
Caroline also works as a CAD designer for a NYC based clothing company and owns three rescue dogs.
Her art is sold in venues such as the Whitney Museum gift shop, 1st Dibs, Lovehouse, Kravet Curated, and Ssense.com.

Cuccellini Shasheen

Cucculelli Shaheen is defined by its synthesis of lush embroidery, effortless silhouette, and subversive edge. Inspiration is drawn from classical art, music, mythology, and New York City.

 

Dauphinette

Dauphinette was founded in 2018 by Olivia Cheng, debuting with one-of-a-kind, Made-in-New-York outwear from recycled and byproduct fur and leather, vintage, and artisanal components. Cheng has since grown the brand to include handbags and accessories, plus a tightly conceptualized selection of ready-to-wear. The result is a dreamy collection of complex, optimistic, storied pieces — a feeling Cheng hopes to inspire in our wearers. Today, the brand is best known for its use of preserved botanicals and repurposed textiles, and can be discovered blooming everywhere from its West Village flagship to the Met Museum’s Costume Institute exhibition, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.

In French, Dauphin refers to the king’s eldest son, i.e. heir to the throne. Coupled with the traditionally feminine suffix -ette, this symbol of the old feudalistic order takes on new agency.

Juzui

Founded in 2001, JUZUI is a Chinese brand dedicated to women’s fashion. Drawing inspiration from themes of Confidence and Abundance, Oriental Charm, and an Enthusiasm for Life, the creative and design direction is currently under the leadership of chief designer Taoray Wang.

“Full-blown Flowers” JUZUI draws inspiration from Eastern elements, particularly the blossoming peony, a flower rooted in the East and celebrated in poetry. Employing expressive and artistic techniques, the brand depicts the peony on exquisite garments, resembling a blooming spring garden with a myriad of peonies in full bloom. In “Blossoms Shanghai” , it is said, “Silence is not the loudest.” Yet, the blooming peonies cultivated by JUZUI insist on making a vibrant statement. With dazzling colors and outstanding craftsmanship, the brand’s originality from China resonates loudly on the stage of New York Fashion Week, creating a captivating spectacle. Carrying the fragrance across the ocean, JUZUI continues to script the legendary tale of the East’s influence on the Western fashion scene.

Kate Barton

The KATE BARTON label has a modern, innovative, and conscientious voice that can express a new take on American evening wear, one that is singular and of the time. Barton produces “Haute couture”- inspired artisanal collections that are inventive (sculptural garments), innovative (engineered materials), sustainable (technology-driven cutting and fabric manipulation) and evolutive (optional and changeable embellishments).

With a focus on technology, shape-engineering and avant-garde draping methods, the brand’s sculpturally draped garments explore innovative approaches and hold serendipitous sustainable advances. The brand’s fabric-first approach, ingenious cutting methods, and unconventional material combinations exceed the limit of what expected evening wear looks like, and feels like, to wear.

Rather than theme-driven seasonal collections I aspire to enhance my singular processes. Each collection is experimental rather than referential. Building on the singular aesthetic affirmed with our introductory collection, delving into developmental fabric with innovative and sustainable manipulation methods to give the experiential creations perpetuity – expanding on the exploration of shape and form.

Lou Dallas

Melke

Easier isn’t necessarily better. That pretty much sums up the philosophy of our founder, Emma Gage. As a child, Emma was exposed to the issue of human trafficking through her family’s work to combat it. As a grownup, she studied design in college and then combined the two passions. Emma believes that, to truly enjoy the clothes we wear, they need to come from a place of love and honesty.

A two-time winner of the YMA Fashion Scholarship as well as the Kate Spade and Company Scholarship, Emma’s designs are focused on joy and freedom, each skillfully made piece expressing her own gender-fluid vision of slow fashion. Refusing to allow extremely high standards for sustainability get in the way of her unapologetically exuberant vision, she creates seriously unhinged luxury collectibles with unrestrained love for the planet and its people.

Pamela Rolland

Pamella Roland debuted its Fall 2002 couture collection to a warm reception from critics and buyers alike. The collection received the prestigious 2003 Gold Coast Award in just its second year of operation. That positive response has grown significantly to the present, making Pamella Roland a label of choice among retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as the finest domestic and international specialty stores. A-list celebrities include Angelina Jolie, Taylor Swift, Karlie Kloss, Jennifer Hudson, Emmy Rossum, Lily Collins, Hilary Rhoda, Eva Longoria, Madonna, and many more.

In 2010, Pamella was inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and, in 2013, Kendall College of Art and Design announced the Fashion Studies program called “The Pamella Roland DeVos School of Fashion.” Since the brand’s inception, the awards have continued for Pamella, as she recently received the “Top Woman-Owned Business” award in Michigan over a distinguished pool of women executives, a source of great pride for her and her company. The broad demographic appeal of the brand is by no means accidental, as Pamella meets and caters to a diverse array of women outside of the fashion centers of New York and Los Angeles. Women who crave the same level of sophistication, comfort, and glamour. Pamella and her husband, Dan, have two daughters, Cassandra and Sydney, and one son, Cole.

Photographer
Jordie Hennigar
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